Evolution of Women's Sportswear


How the evolution of sports fashion has impacted women's performance in sport.

This site is intended to take you on a journey through the history of women's sport fashion to reveal the impact it has had on women's performance and involvement in sport.

In the history of women in sport, several sports spurred the transformation of women's roles from spectators to active players. Among those discussed here include cycling, basketball and swimming. These particular sports are worth investigating because participation in these sports demanded a change from cumbersome, restrictive clothing to attire that was functional and permitted freedom of movement.

Additionally, the evolution of sports fashion was largely impacted by the popularity of higher education and college sports. The combination of education and sport was monumental to the shift of women’s role in society. Education gave women confidence while sport enhanced their physical strength, competitive spirit and allowed for freedom of self-expression.

Another massive promoter and influence on women’s sports participation and fashion was the film industry. Sportswear became the American style, coinciding with the rising popularity and influence of American movies. Celebrities had the power to set trends that spread globally.

Technology and the production of breathable, form-fitting fabrics brought us out of the second world war and into today, where every competitive sport in modern times advertises and encourages performance enhancing fashion. With that comes the problem of scantily clad athletes, where women are often labelled as being too sexy. As a result, her performance is often over-looked, and her self-esteem threatened. This trend is not as evident amongst male athletes.


ABOUT THIS SITE image

In 1893, a prayer-meeting was held in a New York church to address a serious problem that tainted the church. An active church member, a widow, did the unthinkable. She purchased a bicycle. Such actions were unladylike, unchristian, and a disgrace to the church. “The bicycle,” judged the moral guardians, “is the devil’s advocate agent morally and physically.” Calling on all “true women and clergymen” to support them, they denounced cycling by women as “indecent and vulgar,” and for good measure demanded that “married women should not resort to riding the wheel unless they wish to prevent motherhood.”  

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The bicycle offered women freedom from constraints of their daily lives, a latitude that was not welcomed by many, yet was gradually accepted as cycling gained a following of women. The popularity of cycling among women necessitated addressing the unsuitability of women’s clothing, and the problems that it created for women attemtpting to ride a bicycle. It was restrictive, bulky, and was a safety concern in that excess drapery could have been snagged on the crankset or caught in the turning wheels. In 1881 the Rational Dress Society, in London, founded by Lady Florence Harberton, a cyclist and an advocate of exercise for women proposed the wearing of a divided skirt over a pair of bloomers or other under trousers.

The bicycle permitted the freedom to travel and ability to break away from wearing conventional clothing, therefore cycling was directly related to “The New Woman” that was emerging in the 1890s. She was a modern woman who defined her own role in society. Many chose to forgo marriage and child rearing and worked outside the home, or became politically active in women’s  social issues. 




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Basketball deserves credit for initiating change in exercise outfits for women. When basketball for women was invented  at Smith College in 1892, it's creator, Sendra Berenson (1868-1954) saw the long skirts as being too restrictive, so she modified the outfit to a bloused top and a pair of wide, baggy knee-length bloomers. This outfit became a symbol of the college girl; it was a bold move for the time and as the game was adopted at other schools in the United States, the uniform followed. 
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The International Olympics Committee voted in 1910 to introduce swimming events for women. This was significant considering women's swimwear of that time. Since women first started stepping publicly into the water in the mid-nineteenth century, the problem of wet cloth clinging to the female body troubled society. Modesty took precedence over common sense, and the solution was to cover the body in layers- caps, dresses, blouses, skirts, trousers, stockings, shoes, even corsets - all with the hope that the sheer weight of those layers would protect the enveloped body from too curious eyes. The downside of this weight, of course, was that it dropped the body to the bottom like a stone. When women arrived on scene at the Olympics, most had fabricated their own style of racing suit.The English women's 4 X100 meter swim team, pictured here were among the first to adopt the early version of the racing suit.

The importance of these Olympic swimmers was they were taking a stand in a time when it was illegal for women to swim bare legged, and is a formidable example of the need to self-express through clothing.



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American Olympic swimmer Ethelda Bleibtrey was arrested fin 1917 for “nude swimming” on a New York Beach when she removed her shoes and stockings to swim. The publicity from this and the precedent set by these other female Olympic swimmers paid off in that bare-legged swimming was finally sanctioned in the 1920 Olympics.
ETHELDA BlEIBTREY image

Despite the fact that nude bathing was illegal, nudism drew a huge audience. Early Hollywood film, The Water Nymph, (1912), by Mack Sennett  featured attractive women scantily dressed who became known as the Bathing Beauties.  It was apparent that sex sells, for the images of these women found their way into many other movies and advertisments. It was this suit that provided the prototype for the standard suit of the 1920s and early 1930s.

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Movies had tremendous power to influence fashion choices. Through the movies, sportswear became known as the American style, and created a global demand for this comfortable new look. Movies provoked a national captivation with the idea of college and college life, and with sports tied into the mix, the focus on the young, the beautiful and the privileged, the combination of these things created the American dream.

By 1930, over 117 million in the US attended the movies each week. When it came to wearing modern, functional clothing, perhaps the greatest influence was Katharine Hepburn, a gifted athlete in golf and tennis and the movies showcased her exceptional talent. She was a role model for millions of women to embrace their individuality and not follow society’s beaten path when it came to self-expression. 
HOLLYWOOD INFLUENCE image
Since ancient times men and women have worn garments that stretched simply because they were knitted.  Jersey was invented in 1882 and Lastex made from rubber fibres was used for stockings and underwear in the 1930s. After WWII, a wide array of synthetic fibres were fabricated into dresses, underwear and gym tops. The fifties saw revolutionary changes in sports clothes,  much of it due to the invention and use of nylon. By the mid sixties stretch garments were in demand for their high levels of comfort.

Today's technical fabrics include Gortex, which prevents water penetration from the outside, and allows perspiration to escape. Nylon is soft, mildew resistant, and dries quickly. Polyester is the workhorse of the workout fabrics, it is essentially plastic cloth, being durable, wrinkle-resistant, lightweight, breathable, and non-absorbent. Spandex, also known as  Lycra, puts the stretch in workout wear. The synthetic fabric can expand to nearly 600 percent of its size, offers an unrestricted range of motion, and then snaps back in place. Spandex is also breathable, wicks moisture, and dries quickly. It is a staple in form fitting exercise clothes.


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The Education Act of 1972, aka TITLE IX, was significant for the emerging female athlete. TITLE IX ruled that women's funding in sport be equal to that of men. The effects did not happen overnight, though participation increased considerably, in 1972 women's participation was one in nine and by 2004 one in 2.5. The generation of emerging female athletes was timed with increasing competitiveness among major sportswear manufacturers. These corporations recognized the untapped market for women's sporting consumption. Reebok was the first to appeal to the women's market in the early 1990s, but Nike took over with canny advertising campaigns that prompted women to assert their independence.
Canadian Marathon record holder. Lanni received flack for her choice in baring her midsection while running. She had just ran the fastest ever marathon by a Canadian woman.

Lanni Marchant

Lanni attests that while the skill and talent of elite athletes is appreciated, there’s still a double standard for female athletes at the top of their game. She argued that it is unfair to be not taken seriously as an athlete for wearing a sports bra and shorts, “When did a sports bra and shorts become sexual? Does a male athlete have to worry if his image is too sexy and that it would undermine his role as an athlete?”

To make a point, she mimicked the cover from the March 2009 iRun, featuring Canadian Olympic gold medalist, Adam van Koeverden, half naked and holding his runners. She asks if van Koeverdan had to think about whether his picture was too sexy, and did he worry that it would undermine his role as a strong athlete?  Although she can't say for sure whether or not he has to, she knows that she does, and concludes that it is BS.
THE DOUBLE STANDARD image
ADAM VAN KOEVERDEN image

NIKE has worked alongside a team of athletes to develop a single-layer stretchy hijab that could "change the face of sport for Muslim girls." Nike hopes it will encourage Muslim women and girls worldwide to take part in sports and physical activity.

Dressing is an important and controllable way to communicate one’s values because it reflects life status and how a person wants to appear in society. When it comes to women and sports fashion however, the image women are trying to portray and the image society perceives of them are often incongruent.

Despite the leaps and bounds women’s sports fashion has made in the past century, women are still subject to sexualization and discrimination, which undermines their credibility as athletes and threatens their self-image.

Changes from restrictive garments to functional sportswear were absolutely necessary  for women's participation and excellence in competitive sports. This stems from a fundamental human need to construct a social identity with clothing being integral to self-expression. 



THE IMPACT image
I am a 44 year old  female athlete who is very fashion conscious both in and out of my sport. I choose my sports attire for two reasons. One, is to enhance comfort and performance. Having technical, moisture-wicking fabrics, especially when I am out there for hours on end in the hot sun or freezing rain makes perfect sense to me.

The other reason for my choice in sportswear is to look good. I dedicate considerable time to training and racing, I've completed three Ironman Triathlons, seven marathons and numerous other triathlons and running races. The result of that dedication is that I've earned myself a physique that I am proud of and do not feel the need to cover it up.

I chose this topic for research because I imagine if I had lived in the 1920's, I would have been one of those pioneers who advocated competitive sports for women and fought for improving the functionality of women's sportswear to enhance performance. To learn what these other women did to promote competitive sports and athletic wear gives me a new-found appreciation for how far women's sports fashion has come.

To this day, the requirement for women to cover, control and restrict her body remains an issue. This could be due to the troubling belief that for some, women’s proper role is not in the public sphere, but in the domestic role of motherhood. The unfortunate result is a direct attack to a woman's freedom of self-expression through fashion.

ABOUT ME image
Arvanitidou, Zoi & Gasouka, Maria. Fashion, Gender and Social Identity. https://process.arts.ac.uk/sites/default/files/zoi-arvanitidou.pdf. Accessed 02 Feb 2017.

Campbell Warner, Patricia. “Clothing as Barrier: American Women in the Olympics, 1900-1920.” Dress. vol. 24, 1997, pp. 55-68.

Campbell Warner, Patricia. “From Clothing for Sport to Sportswear and the American Style: The Movies Carried the Message, 1912-1940.” Costume, vol. 47, no. 1, 2013, pp. 45-62.

Ewing, Lori. “Lanni Marchant Disgusted by Comments About Women in Sport.” The Canadian Press. 4 Nov 2016. http://www.cbc.ca/sports/olympics/lanni-marchant-disgusted-comments-1.3837723. Accessed 20 Mar 17.

King, Anthony. “The Naked Female Athlete: The Case of Rebecca Romero.” International Review for the Sociology of Sport. vol. 48, no. 5, 2012, pp. 515-534.

Marchant, Lanni. “Half Naked and Almost Famous” www.lannimarchant.com/blog/. Accessed 19 Mar 17.

Tiggemann, Marika & Lacey, Catherine. “Shopping for Clothes: Body Satisfaction, Appearance Investment, and Functions of Clothing Among Female Shoppers.” Body Image. vol. 6, 2009, pp. 285–291.

Thomas, Pauline Weston. Sports Costume and Sports Dress Fashion History to 1960. www.fashion-era.com. Accessed 7 Mar 2017.

"Women's Sports Before and After Title IX" www.titleixproject.blogspot.ca. Accessed 11Mar 2107.

https://gwentuinman.com/2014/04/08/bicycle-bliss/ Accessed 10 Mar 2017.

http://www.annielondonderry.com. Accessed 10 Mar 2017.

http://www.sports-reference.com/olympics/athletes/bl/ethelda-bleibtrey-1.html. Accessed 12 Mar 2017.

http://www.lannimarchant.com/blog/. Accessed 13 Mar 17.

https://www.dezeen.com/2017/03/08/nike-pro-hijab-design-female-muslim-athletes-sportswear-fashion/ Accessed 29 March 17.



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